Key takeaways 

Here are the main things you should know about the drum manufacturing process: 

• Choosing your materials: Select from wood, metal, or acrylic – each offers distinct tonal qualities
• Shaping the shell: Glue and mould layered plies into a round shell using airbag pressure
• Drying and trimming: Microwave drying sets the shape; ends are trimmed for precision
• Applying the finish: Sand and finish with wrap, paint, stain, or veneer 
• Drilling and fitting hardware: Mark, drill, and secure lugs, mounts, and brackets 
• Cutting bearing edges: Router-cut edges shape tone and head response 
• Installing lugs and hoops: Fit lugs for tuning and choose hoops to suit your sound
• Fitting and tuning drumheads: Seat the head, tension evenly, and fine-tune

How drums are made 

Choosing the shell 

The drum shell is at the core of the instrument’s sound. Material, construction, and size all play a role in how it responds, so getting the right mix is key to finding a sound that suits your style. Popular materials include wood, metal shells, and acrylics.

Hybrid shells like the Mapex Armory LA Fusion 6pc Shell Pack combine different woods or materials like acrylic and wood for a unique sound profile. This kit uses birch and maple for warmth and versatility. Wooden shells are usually warmer in tone, while metal shells typically offer more volume and attack.

You can discover what different woods sound like in our guide to drum shell materials. 

The Sonor Vintage Shell Pack isn’t a hybrid, but because of its all-beech construction, it has tonal characteristics that fall somewhere between the clarity and attack of maple and the bassy punch of birch. Kits like this are a great pick if you’re after a warm, rich, and precise sound.

The most recorded snare of all time, on the other hand, the Ludwig LM402 Supraphonic, is made from aluminium and delivers a bright, articulate sound.

Shell thickness matters too. Thicker shells are louder with more projection and less sustain. Thinner ones resonate more freely, with plenty of overtones and better sensitivity, but less volume.  

Some drums feature reinforcement rings to help dry out the tone and bring added clarity. They’re usually found on thinner shells, giving extra strength without adding too much weight.

These rings raise the drum’s fundamental pitch – especially when they’re thicker – and reduce shell resonance, which means less sustain and a tighter, more focused sound. 

Finally, there’s shell size: diameter affects pitch, while depth shapes volume and sustain. Deeper shells resonate longer; shallow ones offer quicker response. All of this shapes the voice of your drum. 

Moulding the shell 

Moulding is where the drum shell starts to take shape. Most builders use plywood – thin veneers sliced, glued, and pressed into a mould. They stagger the joints for strength, then inflate an airbag inside to form a perfectly round shell with even thickness. This is known as air-seal or airbag moulding.

For steam-bent shells, manufacturers bend a single strip of wood into a seamless circle, producing a warm, resonant tone. Metal and acrylic shells are typically rolled and seamed or cast in one piece.

To make stave shells, they glue vertical wood blocks into a ring and shape them on a lathe, creating a dense shell with a punchy, fast attack. Segment and solid shells also bring unique tones but are trickier to build.

After shaping, builders dry the shell – either by air, allowing glue to cure naturally, or with a microwave, which speeds things up without harming the wood. Yamaha, for example, uses this method.

Finally, manufacturers trim the shell ends to ensure they’re level. This step prepares the shell for bearing edges, hardware, and finishing, helping the drum stay consistent in tuning and sound.

Polishing and finishing 

Polishing and finishing give the drum shell its eye-catching, minimalist, or outright cool aesthetic and protect it from wear. First, the drums are cleaned to remove any dust and residue. Then, they’re sanded with finer grits to smooth out the surface and get rid of any imperfections.

There are a few common finishing methods. You have your classic finishes: sparkle, pearl, and oyster swirl. These can come in the form of a wrap, which is cut to size and glued on, often with heat to make the bond more secure.  

For a natural wood finish, the outer ply or veneer of the shell is incorporated during the shell-building process.

Painted shells get several coats, with sanding between each layer, and a clear lacquer on top. Stain finishes soak into the wood grain, highlighting texture without much surface build-up. Each finish gives the drum a distinct look and feel.

To finish, builders polish the shell – usually with a compound – to boost shine, especially on painted or lacquered surfaces. The goal is always the same: a clean, durable finish that ties the kit together.

Creating the bearing edge 

The bearing edge is where the drumhead meets the shell, and it plays a big role in both sound and tuning.

It’s shaped using a router fitted with a bearing-guide bit, which cuts a consistent angle around the top and bottom of the shell. A clean, precise cut is crucial – if the head doesn’t sit evenly, it won’t transfer vibrations properly, and the drum’s tone can suffer. 

A 45-degree edge gives you a sharp, precise sound with plenty of attack and a wide tuning range to play with.

The 30-degree edge – often linked with Gretsch drums – sits somewhere in the middle, balancing warmth and clarity.

Then there’s the round-over edge, which you’ll find on a lot of vintage kits. It’s got a softer feel that brings out a warmer, more muted tone. 

Attaching the hardware and head 

Once the shell is shaped and finished, it’s time to fit the hardware (lugs, mounts, brackets, and hoops), all essential for tuning and function.  

Builders start by drilling small pilot holes to avoid splintering, then enlarge them with a step bit or one slightly bigger than the screws or bolts. Backing the drilling area with cardboard or scrap wood helps prevent blowouts inside the shell.

Lugs affect both performance and style. Single-point lugs are light and simple, double-ended lugs allow tuning from both sides, and high-tension lugs suit snares best.

Tube and beavertail lugs add vintage character. Snares often use double-ended lugs for extra strength, while bass drum lugs are usually larger to fit hoops and claw fittings.

To finish, manufacturers fit the hoops and drumhead onto the bearing edge. Hoops, whether triple-flanged, die-cast, single-flanged, or wood, each change how the head responds and how the drum feels to play.

FAQs 

What materials are used to make a drum? 

Drum shells are usually made from wood, metal, or synthetic composites, each bringing its own character to the sound. Drumheads can be made from traditional animal hide or, more commonly, from synthetic materials like Mylar. Every material choice plays a big role in shaping the drum’s tone, durability, and how it responds when played. 

Why do drums have vent holes? 

Drums have vent holes to help regulate air pressure and let the shell resonate properly. When you hit the drum, these holes let air escape, which improves projection, tone, and overall feel. Without them, drums can end up sounding a bit choked and may not respond as well to your playing. 

Are drums easy to make? 

Drums aren’t easy to make – there’s a lot of precision involved, especially when it comes to shell construction and tuning. Getting the right sound depends on how accurately everything is put together. Even handmade drums take serious know-how, the right tools, and a good deal of skill to get right. 

Final thoughts 

Drum crafting is seriously fascinating, especially if you’re on the hunt for the right kit. Once you get into how different woods, metals, and even plastics shape the sound, and you have a good grasp of how drums are made, you can narrow down your search for the right brand and kit.

We hope this guide has helped!